West Türkiye - Buzzing cities and deserted landscapes

After cycling through the Balkans during two months, we finally reached Türkiye’s border. We entered in this gigantic country - more than 1000km long - by the city of Ipsala. We will remember for a long time our arrival: once we crossed the river and left Greece behind, we were astonished by the eminence of the entrance gate. A massive monument, hundreds of meters wide and as high as a 3-stages-building, forced us to stop and get the precious stamp to visit this beautiful country. What’s more, a massive Turkish flag floating in the air warns you: you are in Türkiye and won’t forget it !

Once this border area crossed, we continued towards Istanbul. We made ourselves a challenge: reach the city as fast as possible- around 100k cycled every day!

On the way, we stoped in Silivri, at a Warmshowers place. It seems that the website is well developed in the country and we will use it quite a lot! Our first Turkish host is an IT engineer, inventor and auto-entrepreneur who successfully made it into the Turkish industry. He lives in a luxurious penthouse near the beach and offers us to stay one month! We rested for 2 days before starting the last stretch to Istanbul. The day off was really needed as the last 60 kilometers to enter Istanbul were very demanding !

We left as early as possible to avoid traffic, but by 8h we were in the middle of a 4 lines highway, trying to make our way forward, to the city center. We got close to the clash few times but by 12h were in the historical center, where people walking finally replaced the cars. We reached Istanbul during Bayram, a very important religious holiday when supposedly everyone from cities are leaving for the countryside to meet with their families. By cycling the streets packed with people, we were not sure if they left this time, or maybe that’s different people coming to visit this amazing city.

For accommodation in Istanbul, we were so lucky and found a Warmshowers: Patrick, a young Australian living in the uphills of an old neighborhood of the town. He welcomed us warmly, making us feel like home. He lived in Turkey for 2years now and fell in love with the lifestyle.

We spent a total of 10 days in the buzzing city, visiting some very touristic places as the blue and Sofia Mosques, and some local places as a very old Turkish Hamam where we where the only tourists. We highly recommend the Camlica Mosque on the Asian side, the biggest mosque in all Turkey. As well, crossing the Bosphore with the boats offers a calm and relax experience. Finally, we had the chance to join Patrick for a yoga session and swam in the strait in his secret spot.

We had a very nice time in Istanbul, resting, planning for remaining of Turkey and doing some maintenance on the bikes (changed Roxy’s tires for wider, Tommy’s saddle for a Brooks, all break pads and bought some gears at Decathlon)

To escape the city and the horrifying traffic, we opted for a ferry, leaving us 40km south of Istanbul, in the middle of nowhere- the town of Yalova.

From there starts the mainland of Türkiye and the immensity of the landscapes. After a few days of cycling through forest, canyons and mountains, we reached the “desert”. Not a sand and camels desert like we will found in Kazakhstan, but a no man’s land, empty. Not a tree. Not a river. Just yellow hills and a straight road. We stocked up some food and started the crossing: 3 days. We felt alone and so small.

After the desert crossing, we were lucky again and near Bilecik we found a Warmshowers (a guide of bike-touring working in the Municipality) so we got a chance to do a tour with him and his students. Later on, in the city of Eskisehir we found a bike-association where we spent two nights sharing bicycle experience with the hosts and other cyclists.

It was an amazing experience and were very happy to finally reach the city of Kulu, the gate of Cappadocia. There, the time that was flowing slowly suddenly accelerated!

In a week we discovered the whiteness of the Tuz Gulu lake, an Uyuni-kind salt lake, where we slept and contemplated the limitless horizon. Then, we reached Arksaray and its beautiful overlooking Mt Hasan. Followed by the Ihlara valley, a deep canyon where we visited carved churches dating hundreds years. Slowly the fairy chimneys, characteristic rocks formations of Cappadocia, poped out from the landscapes, making us feel like childrens climbing and visiting every holes, natural or carved.

Also on our way, the underground city of Kaymakli, dug 9 stories to form one of the biggest underground city in the world. It is said to be able to accommodate approx. 20000 people. Incredible! We spent two hours reaching the 4th level down and anxiety of small spaces already appeared. Imagined leaving down there, no windows or emergency exit!

Finally after 15 days we reached the center of the country: Goreme, the valley of the well known Cappadocia!

We spent there two days, sleeping in the front of the balloons, exploring the unknown canyons, the mysterious carved caves and churches… Even though this valley is very touristic, it is so big and people tend to visit the same places at the same times, so you can really be alone most of the time. The ballons rising up at sunrise is indeed an amazing experience, and you don’t need to go for a ride with one to really enjoy the moment and the beauty of the place.

Here we are, in the center of Türkiye, after a week of visiting interest sites. Now heading north-east to Erzorum to get the Visa for Iran. The next 1000kms will be quite hilly and mountainous. No touristic places ahead. Let’s ride !